Rogue RM-3 Monster Rack 2.0 is rated out of 5 by 7.
Rated 5 out of 5 by Mari from Worthy of its name. Went with the custom RM-3 with nameplate in the clear coat finish. This is a beefy solid rack with 1'' hardware, the hardware alone makes up probably about 30lbs or so. Extremely convenient that they include two Rogue wrenches, so that saves a trip of having to go to your local hardware store. The welds are complete, tight, and clean. Very well done job on the welds. The laser etched numbers and holes are precisely cut and definitely helpful for placing attachments and safeties. Interested to see what attachments are being made to make use of the keyhole tear drop design, so looking forward to that. I don't really have much to add. It's just a really good rack, I don't really have anything negative to say about it. It's very will made and looks great. Probably will outlast me.
Date published: 2016-07-23
Rated 5 out of 5 by sgblair from Doesn't budge, doesn't rock, doesn't move This rack is amazing. Nothing can prepare you for how well this is made. I am 6 foot and 170 lbs. I do not have a floor that I can bolt my rack down to, but it does not budge. I am able to do kipping pull-up, toes to bar, and ring work without any issue. I only had room for the 90 inch tall rack and have found that it is plenty tall. I mainly use my rack for Crossfit type workouts, with some oly lifting mixed in. This rack does not shake and does not move. It has exceeded my every expectation. You will not regret purchasing this rack. It fits comfortably into a small room in my house and I can do any workout or lift using it without any issues or concerns what so ever. As a bonus with the Monster series, the numbering on the holes is extremely convenient. I have to change around my safety straps constantly, which are also extremely convenient and easy to use, and the numbering is very nice to have.
Date published: 2017-01-10
Rated 5 out of 5 by Denis from RM3...Pics do not let you appreciate the Beast I just received my RM3, safety straps coming and with Monster pipe Channel Plate storage in Rogue Red and this thing is a beast. Solid. I have not bolted it down (yet). I'm still debating. With 300lbs on it it is stable enough for any type of pull ups. With more weight it should even be more stable enough to not bolt down. Set up time 50 minutes (2 people). No need to buy any sockets, the Rogue wrenches do the job and exceed it. I have the 90 inch version and it is perfect. I'm 5'7. I have adequate room for anything that is not an oly lift. I have another area for that. The 1inch bolts, massive. again, no need to buy any tools, Rogue will take care of that. The sandwhich cups...are the truth. The rack weighted down does not move. It is heavy. Right now I'm loving it. If I bolt it down, I will update review. 1 Marine plywood 3/4" 4'x8', 1 stall mat cut in 2 pieces 2'x6'. Just buy this thing! If you have the space, but not a lot of space is needed.
Date published: 2017-02-22
Rated 5 out of 5 by DoYouKnowTheIronMan from 90" Satin Clear RM-3 Power Rack When buying gear online, even the best pictures completely fail to convey the scope of the product at hand. Sure, the product weight is listed for your imagination. Measurements are there for you to recreate with a measuring tape. But until you get the product in your hands, you simply can’t appreciate it. The first box I opened contained many smaller boxes and miscellaneous items I ordered. Every box in the order had a label stating the item inside and the weight of the contents. Quality: The hardware. 42 pounds. I say, the hardware alone weighs 42 pounds. Pick up a 45 pound plate, and understand that the hardware alone weighs essentially this much. The standard J-cups. Massive. 8 inches tall and 3 inches wide, and just about 7 pounds each. The best I’ve ever felt. The band pegs. Again, several pounds each. I mention the small components because you have to understand how overbuilt they are to begin appreciating the larger pieces. I love overbuilt products, and I love extremes, so I initially inquired to see if Rogue still makes racks with 7 gauge steel. They do not. And after receiving this one, I understand why. It would be beyond overbuilt; it would be stupid. The tubing is 11 gauge. You would have to smash into it with the freight truck on which it was delivered if you wanted to harm it. And even then you better bet UPS would be filing an insurance claim. Now this is a pretty huge deal to me: the foot plates at the bottom of the uprights, and all the perpendicular endplates of the crossmembers for that matter, are actually 3/8" inch thick steel plates. Rogue does not explicitly advertise this, but it is a huge selling point in my opinion, in terms of both build quality and aesthetics. Ideally I would have backing plates, but upon assembling the rack I come to find I get something much better: backing plates that are welded right on, and present at all bolt connection points. (Now I see this is why the heights are listed as 90 and 3/8", 100 and 3/8", etc). I tallied up every little thing that came with the unit, from the hardware and band pegs all the way on up to the tubing, and including the adjustable monolift everything comes in at 399 pounds. 399 pounds. And mind you this is the smallest version of the rack. The welds are stunning (see pictures) and the laser numbering is very precise and very consistent. The only thing I did not like, and I would advise you make a note at checkout, are the thick Rogue stickers that come on 2 of the uprights. They take away from the grandeur of the rack, hide several lasered numbers, and inhibit the use of several adjustment holes, not to mention one of the stickers was crooked, which is a very small error, but enough to be off-putting, and completely unbecoming of Rogue’s otherwise fantastic quality assurance and attention to detail. I gently got under them with a utility knife, peeled them off, and gave the area a quick scrub with WD-40. Assembly: Assembly was easy, relaxing, and almost entirely doable by myself. I will outline how I went about it. Suggested tools: Large ratchet with 1.5” socket. That’s it. Totally doable without it, but I wanted the process to be leisurely. (For general Rogue product assembly, if you’re buying a bench, monolift, concrete anchors, etc, I’d also have a small ratchet with 9/16”, 3/4”, and 15/16” sockets). 1) I assembled the left and right sides of the rack one at a time on the floor. 2) During the early and intermediate stages of assembly, do not fully tighten the bolts by any means. Keep everything just tight enough not to be completely loose and jangling about, and keep in mind that the large wrenches (or appropriate ratchets) generate tons of torque, so you are probably tightening things even more than you realize. 3) My ceiling is just 2 or 3 inches taller than the top of the rack, so after I assembled one side, I stood it up and wedged some foam sheeting (from the packaging) between the crossmember and the ceiling. This way it stayed put nice and securely while I was on the ground building up the other side. As a side note, the piece stood up by itself before putting the foam. Very unsafe and certainly not advisable, but still remarkable. 4) I repeated the process with the other side, wedging foam between the crossmember and the ceiling. 5) Next, I connected the two sides together via the pull-up bar. I suggest making the initial connection with the pull-up bar because it is very light and easy to position. 6) To mount it, first prepare a bolt and washer on the sides of both uprights. Push a bolt in through the top hole on each side, just far enough so that they go through the uprights but do not come out the other side of the tubing. Position the pull-up bar between the uprights with one hand (easy, only 16 pounds), align the holes with the bolts, and simply tap one of the bolts through the bar hole with your free hand. Swap hands and tap in the bolt on the other side. Quickly grab a locking washer and nut for each and get them hand tight with your fingers. Now you can rest assured that the rack will not collapse. 7) For the last part I very highly recommend having a second pair of hands if you ordered the nameplate crossmember. This thing weighs 56 pounds, so you don't want it dropping on any part of you because you foolishly held it with one hand while trying to fiddle bolts with the other, because you're "Alpha." No, now your injured, and won't train for 3 months. You lost all your gains, did not pass go, and did not collect $200. (You spent $2000 in deductibles). 7 cont'd) I prepared the bolts and washers just like I did with the pull-up bar, but I asked my wife to come and do the tapping while I held up the crossmember with both hands. There are cut-out sections on both sides which make great places to grab it. It took us 10 seconds to do it together and was far safer than if I were to attempt to do it alone. 8) At this point I mounted the J-cups, monolift attachments, band pegs, and a barbell with a couple plates to weight the rack and help it “settle.” 9) Then I proceeded to tighten the bolts from lightly tight to intermediately tight. I would start in one corner and then proceed to the opposite corner. So if you do the bolts on the bottom left of the rack, proceed to the top right, and so on, until everything is A BIT tighter. 10) Then I took a large level and measuring tape, and made sure that everything was straight, that both the front and rear uprights were each 43 inches apart, and just generally made sure that nothing looked crooked or funky. 11) Once everything checked out, I went ahead and did a final tightening of the bolts. Keep in mind that even at this point I did NOT fully tighten everything to the maximum. As I said earlier, you generate tons of torque with a big ratchet, so once I started having to apply significant amounts of force, I cut it off right there. Do not tighten things as tightly as you possibly can. They're not going ANYWHERE. Reminds me of that line from The Boondock Saints in the alleyway, "Where you goin'?? NOWHERE!" 12) For concrete anchoring, do not accidentally drill all the way through your garage slab and out the other end like I did. Use a hammer drill with a high quality masonry bit, and check your depth. Do not press overly hard on the drill, and make sure to vacuum out dust and debris from the hole before installing the anchors. I do not have an impact gun; a small ratchet with a 9/16" socket did the trick just fine. I went through my rubber mats and into concrete. Keep in mind that if you cut out rubber squares for the feet of your rack and let it sit right on the ground, you will effectively be that much taller in comparison to it, which may affect your ability to press overhead. The drill, a good bit, and a spare bit should cost no more than $100 with tax. In terms of necessity, I do not personally feel it needs to be anchored. The only way I think it could tip is if you tried squatting 1000lbs with the J-cups mounted outside the rack, or if that UPS truck came barreling back toward it for round 2. I mounted it just to be positive it wouldn't shift in little baby steps from racking squats unevenly, hitting one upright before the other. Use: The rack is perfect for all powerlifting movements. If I were into Olympic weightlifting, I imagine I would go with the RM-4 for the added depth, but the bar path on all powerlifting movements is straight, minus the bench press which has a minor arc. Regardless, if the bar gets so out of whack that the 30" depth becomes a problem, it's because you have completely fallen over and something is desperately wrong. As a result I think that the 30" depth is perfect. I certainly wouldn't want any less, but any more is superfluous. And mind you my last rack was about 40" in depth. The only thing that makes the rack perhaps feel a touch small is the monolift. If you don't plan on getting one, then you can disregard this. I will be reviewing the monolift to explain what I mean. As far as height is concerned, I was afraid that the 90" model might not be tall enough for overhead pressing. Before making the purchase, I reached to full extension as high as I could along a wall, trying to emulate the movement, marking the center of my hand with a pencil. I knew that it would be a close call, as I am 5'11" with long monkey arms (my wingspan is 3" longer than my height). However once I got the rack standing I went in for the moment of truth, and there is plenty of space (see pictures). At full extension, with a shrug in my shoulders, I have at least two if not three inches before the barbell would hit the crossmembers. Besides looking a lot better, this is another reason why I like the design of the Monster series over all of the others where the crossmembers sit lower than the top of the uprights.
Date published: 2017-06-26
Rated 5 out of 5 by jmillr1 from Exactly what I was looking for I bought the bright blue powder coat and it looks great. Easy to put together. I would definitely recommend some weight holders for the sides if you don't put it into the concrete because it will move. I also appreciate the fact that there are so many attachments for the rig as well.
Date published: 2017-10-16
Rated 5 out of 5 by Chris11 from Top quality Pictures do not do this rack justice. If you want the best of the best buy the monster rack. I got the RM-3 90in and it fits with just enough space all around in a 10ft x 10ft room.
Date published: 2017-12-22
Rated 5 out of 5 by Bmochinski from Unbelievable Quality Best equipment seen in a long time . Very happy with the overall quality .
Date published: 2018-04-12